OBJECTIVE:
1.
Differentiate
the different function of the ingredients in each formula.
2.
Understand the
rational and function of the different type of formulation of the lipstick.
3.
Evaluate the
quality of the products.
Introduction
Cosmetics can be traced to ancient
civilizations. In particular, the use of lip color was prevalent among the
Sumerians, Egyptians, Syrians, Babylonians, Persians, and Greeks. Later,
Elizabeth I and the ladies of her court colored their lips red mercuric
sulphide. In Western society during the later half of the nineteenth century,
it was generally believed only promiscuous women wore lipstick. Then, lipsticks
are made to appeal to the current fashion trend and come in a wide range of
colors. Lipstick is made of dyes and pigments in a fragranced oil-wax base. The
primary ingredients found in lipstick are wax, oil, alcohol and pigment.
Lipstick, is also a symbol of feminine beauty and sensually and a method of
attracting attention. The red color of the lips was first accentuated in the
ancient world. Today, a woman uses lipstick to highlight her individually,
character and seductive capacity to underline her smile.
Material
Castor oil, D&C blue
pigments, mica pigments, white beeswax, cocoa butter, vitamin E acetate, vaseline,
honey, paraben
Apparatus
Procedure
Phase
A
Product
|
Pigment
mixture
|
|
Blue
pigment(g)
|
Mica pigment
(g)
|
|
A
|
0.7
|
0.3
|
B
|
0.6
|
0.4
|
C
|
0.5
|
0.5
|
D
|
0.4
|
0.6
|
E
|
0.3
|
0.7
|
1.
15 ml of castor
oil was measured by using measuring cylinder.
2.
Blue and mica
pigment were weight by using electronic balance according to the table obove.
3.
The pigment was
mix by using mortar and pestle first
before adding castor oil to the mixture.
Phase
B
Material
|
Amount of
material needed of each product
|
||||
Product A
|
Product B
|
Product C
|
Product D
|
Product E
|
|
white beeswax
|
1.7g
|
1.5g
|
1.3g
|
1.1g
|
0.9g
|
cocoa butter
|
1.0 g
|
1.2g
|
1.4g
|
1.6g
|
1.8g
|
vitamin E
acetate
|
1.3 ml
|
1.3 ml
|
1.3 ml
|
1.3 ml
|
1.3 ml
|
Vaseline
|
0.5 g
|
0.5 g
|
0.5 g
|
0.5 g
|
0.5 g
|
Honey
|
0.6 g
|
0.6 g
|
0.6 g
|
0.6 g
|
0.6 g
|
1.
White beeswax,
cocoa butter, vaseline, and honey were weight by using
electronic balance and vitamin E acetate was measured by using pipette
according to the amount needed based on instruction above.
2.
All of the
material above was put on the evaporating basin and it was melt by using water
bath.
Phase
C
1.
When phase B is
still warm mix it with phase A.
2.
The mixture was
pour into the molding and it was let to cool at room temperature.
Result
Evaluation
1.
Melting
point
Product
|
Melting point
(oC)
|
A
|
40
|
B
|
38
|
C
|
37
|
D
|
35
|
E
|
34
|
2.
Stability
studies at 4 oC, 20-25 oC and 30-40 oC.
Product
|
Stabilities at
|
||
4 oC
|
20-25 oC
|
30-40 oC
|
|
A
|
Harden and
unchanged with little water droplets appear
|
Normal
|
Starts to
melt, to be sweating and appears oily and sticky; water droplets
|
B
|
Harden and unchanged with little water
droplets appear
|
Normal
|
Starts to
melt, to be sweating and appears oily and sticky; water droplets
|
C
|
Harden and unchanged with little water
droplets appear
|
Normal
|
Starts to
melt, to be sweating and appears oily and sticky; water droplets
|
D
|
Harden and unchanged with little water
droplets appear
|
Normal
|
Starts to
melt, to be sweating and appears oily and sticky; water droplets
|
E
|
Harden and unchanged with little water
droplets appear
|
Normal
|
Starts to
melt, to be sweating and appears oily and sticky; water droplets
|
 |
| Under normal temperature |
 |
| Under 30-40 degree celsius |
 |
| Under 4 degree celsius |
Discussion:
Lipsticks
formulation has been widely used today to enhance the beauty of lips and to add
glamour touch to the makeup. Lipstick can freshen the face by colouring as well
as gives protection to lips from the effects of cold, dry weather, UV light and
wind. Even though lipstick is most commonly viewed today as a
fashion accessory that can help in achieving preferred look, and enhance the
appearance with clothes, it is also a very important health item that can
greatly help you in maintaining your health and happiness. Most of the
lipsticks manufacturers are very conscientious about hydration and the
lipsticks are made to preserve the natural state of your lips. Lipstick
manufacturers then added sun protection ingredients to their products to
protect the lips from sun, drying, wind, and other harmful and aging effects. Using lipsticks also gives the
confidence to woman today and make them look more attractive and energetic.
Lipstick comes in many different shades from stark white to the darkest red and
it can be determined according to each individual skin tone, shape of lips and
mouth. Lipsticks shade is made up from pigment, the higher the pigment content,
the longer lasting the colour. Lipstick is the
only cosmetic ingested, and because of this strict controls on ingredients, as
well as the manufacturing processes, are imposed. Lipstick is mixed and
processed in a controlled environment so it will be free of contamination.
Incoming material is tested to ensure that it meets required specifications and
samples of every batch produced are saved and stored at room temperature for
the life of the product to maintain a control on the batch. Color control of
lipstick is critical, and one only has to see the range of colors available
from a manufacturer to be aware of this. The dispersion of the pigment is
checked stringently when a new batch is manufactured, and the color must be
carefully controlled when the lipstick mass is reheated. Colorimetric equipment
is used to provide some numerical way to control the shades of lipstick.Thus, a lipstick with good quality should
obey the following criteries:
1. Good
shapes
2. High
melting point and stable in both low temperature and high temperature with no
sweating, bleeding, streaking and blooming.
3. No
allergic, non- drying, non- irritating to lips.
4. Easily to
be applied and removed.
5. Feel
comfortable on the lips(without being greasy)
6. The
colour must be permanent on the lips but capable of being readily removed when
desired.
7. Moisturizing
and softening
8. Desirable
degree of plasticity to make the colour shiny with high retention of colors
intensity without any change in shades.
9. Give a
clear non-feathering outline
Generally, there are
three stages in the preparation of lipsticks. The first stage is the
preparation of colour dispersion where the pigments have to be carefully
blended and it is followed by the preparation of wax base by heating all the
waxes, plus some of the oils and last is the preparation of lipstick mass which
involves the blending of oils.
After the molten lipsticks mass are being formed through cooling, molding takes
place by the hot mixture being poured into lipsticks mould and allowed to fully
cool, then extracted when cooled.
Phase A is the preparation of colour
dispersion and consists of 15ml of castor oil for all the 5 sets of lipsticks. Castor oil is a vegetable
oil derived from the castor bean. It is used as an emollient, though its unique
property is that when dry it forms a solid film that can have water-binding
properties. Besides, castor oil is a good emulsifier and emollient because it
maintains its structure at extremely high and low temperatures. Castor helps
cosmetic products maintain a smooth consistency in a variety of climate
conditions. In addition, due to its
“non-comedogenic property.it does not
contribute to acne”, thus, it is rarely associated with skin irritation
or allergic reactions and safe to be used,
but can have a slightly sticky feel on skin.
Besides that, it is also being used as the solvent for colour agents, in this
example, they are brown, orange, purple, golden colour, and mica pigment. Next,
the function of adding Colour pigments into the solvent is to gives the
lipstick colour and it covers the lips with a colour layer which serves
to hide any skin roughness and give smooth and pleasant appearance. On the other hand, using Mica pigment which often
coated with titanium dioxide is to give a highly
transparent effect to the lipsticks due to the refractive and reflective
properties (because of its light scattering and light transmission properties)
in order to enhance the range of colors available . Mica particles will only
suspend themselves in a thick base. If the base is too thin, the mica particles
will sink to the bottom of the product. By varying the proportion of between
the colour pigment and mica pigment, several colours and brightness of
lipsticks are obtained.
In this experiment, for
formulation 1 in phase A, our group has
used the highest proportion of blue colour pigment, which is 0.7 g with the lowest
proportion of mica pigment, which is 0.3g . In this case, it gives the darkest colour
shade among all the lipstick sets. On the other hand, in formulation 2,3 and 4,
we used the medium proportion of blue colour pigment, which is 0.6g,0.5g and
0.4g and mica pigment which is 0.4g, 0.5g and 0.6g . It gives the slightly
darker colour shade compare to other formulation. Finally, in formulation 5 of
phase A, we used the lowest proportion of blue colour agent which is 0.3g and highest
proportion of mica pigment, which is 0.7g.It gives the lightest blue colour
shade among the lipsticks sets. The glowing effect of lipsticks is due to the
presence of mica pigment characterized by refractive and reflective properties.
Hence, the higher the proportion of mica pigment in lipstick, the more glowing
effect the lipstick will show. In this laboratory preparation, the glowing effects
are highest in formulation 5, followed by formulation 4, 3, 2 and 1.
Lipstick of formulation 3 (darkest colour
shade)
Lipstick of formulation 1 (medium colour
shade)
Lipstick
of formulation 2 (medium colour shade)
Phase
B is the preparation of wax base in which the waxes are dissolved with some
oils by heating. This base is important to determine the melting point and
stability of lipsticks. Usually, the higher the melting point of the lipstick,
the more stable the lipstick. In this context, White beeswax is chosen due to
its melting point (62-64°C) and its specific properties to bind oil(compliable
with other lipids such as vegetable oil, animal fat and fat acid).
Beeswax is a natural substance obtained from bees’ honeycombs while white
beeswax is made from yellow beeswax by bleaching. It can provide hardness and creaminess of the lipstick. Due to its high melting point and antioxidant
properties, it enhances stability and consistency, and provides richness to
formulations. Applying a little of white beeswax would be able to assist the
colouring agent consistency as its original colour. Besides, Beeswax
reduces inflammation, softens skin, and has antioxidant properties. , hence providing extra protection to
the lips while using. On the other hand, the Cocoa butter is the vegetable fat
which is extraxcted from cocoa beans . It is a thickening agent used
to balance the melting point and hardness of lipsticks with white beeswax due
to its lower melting point (approximately 35 degree celcius, which enables it
to melt in body temperature) as well as providing a suitable film on the
applied lips. It furthermore has a smooth texture and
has excellent emollient properties to provide the
moisture to the skin.However, it is still a good thickening agent to make it
ideal for molding. Besides that, it also helps to relieve the dry skin after
sun and wind exposure and soothe the stretch marks and scar. It is also an
antioxidant.
Besides
that, the phase B also has 1.3 ml Vitamin E acetate. Naturally
occurring vitamin E can be unstable in skin care formulations but Alpha
Tocopherol is susceptible to UV irradiation. Thus, the use of Vitamin E
Acetate, an ester of alpha tocopherol helps overcome this limitation. It is an anti-oxidant that protects lips against UV rays
and has anti-aging properties. Therefore, this improves the
stability of cosmetics.
Next 0.5g of Vaseline is added to protect the skin from sun and weather
exposure as well as to prevent dehydration of lip skins by forming a sealant
over the lips to enable skin-softening moisture to build up naturally inside
the skin itself. Lastly, Honey in Phase B can help to provide sweetness of the
lipstick to improve the taste as well as texture besides acting as the
moisturizer.
There are three evaluation tests that
we conduct for the lipsticks preparation, namely the melting
point test, pH testing and stability studies at 4◦C, 20-25◦C
and 30-40◦C. Melting point test and stability studies are correlated
with each other. For the melting point test, we dip and heat the lipsticks with
the containers on the water bath with the continuous stirring. When the
lipstick started to melt and the materials move along, the temperature was
recorded and this is the melting point for our lipsticks. For overall, the
melting point of our lipsticks are 40 degree celcius for formulation 1, 38
degree celcius for formulation 2, 37 degree celcius for formulation 3, 35
degree celcius for formulation 4, and 34 degree celcius for formulation 5. Although
the maximum melting point is desirable for lipsticks formulation, our products
can still be good used as they have the melting point higher than the body
temperature. However, be noted that our lipsticks cannot be used under the hot
climate, as the lipsticks are unstable and tend to melt under such condition.
Varying the proportion between white beeswax and cocoa butter can affect the
melting point of the lipsticks due to the fact of different melting points
between these two ingredients. Generally, the lipsticks with higher proportion
of white beeswax will have the higher melting point and harder property. To
prove this, the formulation 1 which have highest proportion of beeswax (1.7g
beeswax) have the highest melting point, which are 40 degree celsius. Then, it
is followed by formulation 2 (1.5 g beeswax) which has melting point of 38 degree celsius, formulation 3 (1.3g
beeswax) which has melting point of 37 degree celcius , formulation 4 (1.1 g beeswax) which has
melting point of 35 degree celsius and formulation 4 (0.9g beewax) which has
melting point of 34 degree celcius.
For pH testing, we dip all the lipstick
by using orange, yellow and blue litmus paper. The result shown that the orange
litmus paper remain unchanged, the yellow litmus paper turns blue and the blue
litmus paper remain unchanged. This proven that all the lipstick is alkali.
 |
| pH test |
For stability
studies of lipsticks at 4◦C, 20-25◦C
and 30-40◦C. We record the observation and take the photos of the
lipstick after placing the lipsticks under the regarding conditions for two
hours. Then, the lipsticks were left and the test was repeated for 3 days and
any observations were recorded every day. At 20-25◦C, which is
normal room temperature, all of our lipsticks behave normally as the commercial
lipstick in market. They are unchanged with no melting, no freezing , no
sweating and streaking. Besides, they also do not produce oily layer or any
water droplets on top of it. Moreover, the colour intensity remains the same.
At 4◦C, all of our lipsticks
are put into the refrigerator. After the testing, all of our lipsticks become
harden with little water vapour appear.
At 30-40◦C,
all the lipsticks were left under the hot sun for half an hour . As the result, formulation 1,2
and 3 starts to melt and sweat. They also become oily and sticky together with
the appearance of water droplets. For formulation 4, 5 and 6, the lipstick
shows the same result as formulation 1,2 and 3, with an additional observation
is that they tend to streak. The difference between the response of
different formulations is due to the different melting points and this is
affected by the different proportions between white beeswax ad Cocoa butter.
Sweating, streaking and appear of water droplets may be due to high oil content
of the wax composition. If too much of this
sweating occurs, the spreading of lipsticks over the lips is failed.
Lipsticks
at 4 degree celsius
Lipsticks
at 30-40 degree Celsius
Lipstick
of formulation 4 at 4 degree Celsius and 30-40 degree celsius
Lipstick
of formulation 5 at 4 degree Celsius and 30-40 degree celsius
Lipstick
of formulation 6 at 4 degree Celsius and 30-40 degree celsius
Conclusion:
In conclusion, Lipstick is a alkali cosmeceutical product. The colour of the lipstick depends on the proportion of
the colour pigments and the mica pigments. The melting point of the lipstick
depends on the proportion of the white beeswax and cocoa butter in Phase B. The
higher amount of white beeswax contributes to the higher melting point.
Lipstick is stable at normal room temperature but its stability is affected by
too high or too low temperature. Besides, the melting point in some context,
may influence the stability of the lipsticks under the high temperature.
References:
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